Upper Dolpo to Mustang Trek - 25 Days

Dolpo · 25 Days

Upper Dolpo to Mustang Trek - 25 Days

· Strenuous · Max altitude 5,550m (18,209 ft) at Jungben La · Max group 2-12 people

Duration

25 Days

Max Altitude

5,550m (18,209 ft)

at Jungben La

Grade

Strenuous

Lodging

Tented camping + 3-star hotels in cities

Overview

The Upper Dolpo to Mustang traverse is the longest, most demanding, most logistically complex teahouse-and-camping trek in our catalogue. Over 25 days you cross the entire Trans-Himalayan plateau west to east - from the turquoise Phoksundo lake in Lower Dolpo, over four passes above 5,000m, through the Shey Gompa pilgrimage sites and the Crystal Mountain, north along the Tibetan border via Saldang and Tinje, finally dropping into Upper Mustang and the Kali Gandaki valley at Marpha.

This is camping country - there are no teahouses above Phoksundo. We bring a full kitchen crew, dining tent, sleeping tents and a mule team. Your guide is fluent in Tibetan, Nepali and English. You need to be a fit, experienced trekker with serious tolerance for altitude, simple food, basic hygiene and remote terrain. What you earn in return is access to one of Asia's most untouched cultural and physical landscapes - Tibetan Buddhism the way it was practised before Chinese annexation.

Highlights

  • Cross the entire Upper Dolpo plateau from Phoksundo Lake to Saldang to Tinje
  • Visit Shey Gompa (800-year-old monastery) and the sacred Crystal Mountain
  • Stand at the turquoise Phoksundo Lake (3,600m) - Nepal's deepest
  • See Nepal's highest waterfall (330m) at Ringmo
  • Cross four 5,000m+ passes: Nangdala (5,240m), Shey La (5,100m), Mola Pass (5,030m), Jungben La (5,550m)
  • Walk salt-trade routes still used by yak caravans
  • Stay in pre-Chinese-influence Tibetan villages of Saldang, Komash, Shimen
  • Spot blue sheep, Himalayan tahr, golden eagle - potential snow leopard
  • End in the apple orchards and Bon villages of Marpha (Mustang)
  • Fully supported camping expedition with kitchen, mules and Tibetan-speaking sirdar

Itinerary

Day 1

Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m)

🍽 Welcome dinner

Airport pickup, hotel check-in and trek briefing.

Day 2

Kathmandu permit day and city tour

🍽 Breakfast

Final permit issuance day with our office. Free time for city sightseeing.

Day 3

Fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj (150m)

⏱ 1-hour flight 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Short flight west to the Nepalgunj lowlands. Overnight near the airport for the early morning flight.

Day 4

Fly Nepalgunj to Juphal (2,475m), trek to Dunai (2,150m)

⏱ Flight + 3 hours trek ↔ 6 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Spectacular STOL flight into Juphal. Trek begins. Easy walk along the Thuli Bheri river to Dunai. First night camping.

Day 5

Dunai to Chhepka (2,687m)

⏱ 6 hours ↔ 14 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Cross the permit checkpoint at Sunlight, enter Shey Phoksundo National Park.

Day 6

Chhepka to Chunuwar (3,110m)

⏱ 6 hours ↔ 12 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Walk beside the Phoksundo river with multiple crossings.

Day 7

Chunuwar to Phoksundo Lake (3,600m)

⏱ 5-6 hours ↔ 9 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Climb past Nepal's highest waterfall (330m) to the village of Ringmo and the lake.

Day 8

Rest day at Phoksundo Lake

🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Explore Ringmo village and the 900-year-old Tshowa Bon monastery. Photograph the lake.

Day 9

Phoksundo to Sallaghari camp

⏱ 5-6 hours ↔ 12 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

The famous cliff-edge trail above the lake's west shore, then through pine forest to camp.

Day 10

Sallaghari to Nangdala High Camp (4,717m)

⏱ 5-6 hours ↔ 12 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek up the Tuk Kyaksa river canyon to a wide rock-slab campsite below the pass.

Day 11

Nangdala HC to Shey Gompa (4,280m) via Kang La (5,240m)

⏱ 6-7 hours ↔ 10 km ▲ 5,240m 🍽 Breakfast, packed Lunch, Dinner

The first 5,000m pass. Three-hour climb to the top, then descend to the 800-year-old Shey monastery.

Day 12

Shey Gompa to Namgung via Shey La (5,100m)

⏱ 6-7 hours ↔ 12 km ▲ 5,100m 🍽 Breakfast, packed Lunch, Dinner

Second high pass. Views into Mustang and Tibet.

Day 13

Namgung to Saldang (3,770m)

⏱ 4-5 hours ↔ 9 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Walk past herding camps to the Tibetan-style village of Saldang.

Day 14

Rest day in Saldang - hike to Yangjer Gompa (4,599m)

⏱ 4-5 hours ▲ 4,599m 🍽 Breakfast, packed Lunch, Dinner

Day hike to one of the richest monasteries of the region.

Day 15

Saldang to Komash via Khom La (4,500m)

⏱ 6 hours ↔ 15 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Cross a high ridge to a tiny Tibetan-style village.

Day 16

Komash to Shimen via Shimen La (4,260m)

⏱ 5 hours ↔ 13 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Possible blue sheep and snow leopard country.

Day 17

Shimen to Tinje (4,160m)

⏱ 6 hours ↔ 14 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Walk beside the Panjang Khola to Tinje - a wide flat valley used as an airstrip by old British expeditions.

Day 18

Tinje to Yak Kharka

⏱ 5 hours ↔ 12 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Camp on a high grassy meadow surrounded by yak herds.

Day 19

Yak Kharka (4,780m) to Chharka via Mola Pass (5,030m)

⏱ 6 hours ↔ 13 km ▲ 5,030m 🍽 Breakfast, packed Lunch, Dinner

Third high pass. Visit the village Bon monastery.

Day 20

Chharka to Nulungsumda

⏱ 6 hours ↔ 14 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Arid highland trek.

Day 21

Nulungsumda to Ghalden Ghuldum (4,247m) via Niwala La (5,120m) and Jungben La (5,550m)

⏱ 8 hours ↔ 16 km ▲ 5,550m 🍽 Breakfast, packed Lunch, Dinner

The hardest day of the trek - two passes back to back, the second being the highest of the trip. Long descent into Mustang.

Day 22

Ghalden Ghuldum to Sangta (3,777m)

⏱ 5-6 hours ↔ 12 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Final trekking day. Reach the road head at Sangta.

Day 23

Sangta to Marpha by jeep

⏱ 4-5 hours ↔ Drive 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Jeep transfer to the apple-growing village of Marpha. Hot shower for the first time in three weeks.

Day 24

Marpha to Pokhara by jeep

⏱ 7-8 hours ↔ Drive 🍽 Breakfast

Drive down the Kali Gandaki valley to Pokhara.

Day 25

Pokhara to Kathmandu, departure

⏱ 30-min flight or 7-hour drive 🍽 Breakfast

Return to Kathmandu and onward home.

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What's included

Included

  • Round-trip Kathmandu-Nepalgunj flights and Nepalgunj-Juphal flight
  • All airport pickups and drops
  • 3 nights' Kathmandu and 1 night Pokhara accommodation (3-star, BB plan)
  • 1 night Nepalgunj hotel
  • Upper Dolpo Restricted Area Permit (USD 500 first 10 days, USD 50/day after)
  • Lower Dolpo Restricted Area Permit and Shey Phoksundo National Park Permit
  • Annapurna Conservation Area Permit
  • Senior English/Tibetan-speaking guide and assistant
  • Full kitchen crew (cook + kitchen helpers)
  • Mule team for baggage transport
  • All camping equipment (tents, sleeping pads, dining tent, toilet tent, kitchen tent)
  • Three meals a day plus tea and snacks throughout
  • Boiled drinking water daily
  • Jeep transfer Sangta-Marpha-Pokhara
  • Optional return Pokhara-Kathmandu flight or scenic drive
  • Emergency evacuation co-ordination
  • All government taxes

Not included

  • Nepal visa fee
  • International airfare
  • Travel insurance covering trekking to 6,000m with helicopter rescue (compulsory)
  • Meals in Kathmandu and Pokhara outside the BB plan
  • Personal trekking equipment
  • Hot showers, charging, sat-phone calls
  • Alcohol and bottled drinks
  • Tips for the camping crew (significant - this is a large team)
  • Any cost arising from flight delays, weather or political disruption

Trek guide

The Inner Himalaya

Dolpo and Mustang sit north of the main Himalayan chain, in the rain shadow created by Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. The result is a high-altitude desert that looks more like Tibet than Nepal - and culturally is Tibetan in language, religion and architecture. The Chinese closing of Tibet in the 1950s and the subsequent flight of monks and nomads into these valleys means that, in some respects, the Tibetan Buddhism here is more intact than what survives in Tibet itself.

Shey Gompa and Crystal Mountain

Shey Gompa is an 800-year-old monastery sitting in a wide valley at 4,280m. Behind it rises Crystal Mountain - sacred to local Buddhists, who circumambulate it once a year in a multi-day pilgrimage. Peter Matthiessen's book "The Snow Leopard" was set largely in and around Shey.

Phoksundo Lake

At 3,600m and 145m deep, Phoksundo is Nepal's deepest lake. The colour comes from the suspended mineral content - calcium carbonate gives it a luminous turquoise hue. The lake was made famous internationally by Eric Valli's 1999 film "Caravan" (Himalaya), which used Ringmo village as its base.

The Four High Passes

  • Nangdala / Kang La (5,240m): First pass, into Shey valley.
  • Shey La (5,100m): Out of Shey towards Namgung.
  • Mola Pass (5,030m): Out of Chharka valley.
  • Jungben La (5,550m): Highest of the trek, into upper Mustang.

Each pass is a single-day crossing with a steep climb to the top and a long descent.

Acclimatisation

Built-in rest days at Phoksundo (Day 7) and Saldang (Day 13) plus the natural slow climb give a controlled acclimatisation arc. No pass is crossed below 5,000m which means the body adjusts steadily.

Permits

  • Upper Dolpo Restricted Area Permit (USD 500 first 10 days, USD 50/day after)
  • Lower Dolpo Restricted Area Permit
  • Shey Phoksundo National Park Permit
  • Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (for the Mustang exit)

Total permit cost is substantial - roughly USD 800 per trekker. This is included in your package price.

Best Season

  • Late spring (May-June): Drier, warmer, fewer flight cancellations
  • Autumn (September-October): Clearest visibility, drier passes

Monsoon (Jul-Aug) is the only season Dolpo is properly trekkable for some operators - the rain shadow means very little rain even in monsoon. Winter (Dec-Feb) is impossible - passes are snowed in.

Fitness

Among the most demanding treks in our catalogue. 25 consecutive days of walking, four 5,000m+ passes, basic camping conditions. You should be a strong, experienced trekker with prior multi-day high-altitude experience. 6 months of focussed training.

Packing list

Clothing: Heavy down jacket -20C, fleece mid-layer, soft-shell jacket, hard-shell waterproof shell, soft-shell trousers, 3 trekking shirts, 2 trousers, thermal base layers, 8 pairs socks, beanie, sun hat, balaclava, neck buff, insulated and liner gloves

Footwear: Stiff-soled waterproof trekking boots, gaiters, camp shoes

Accessories: 40L daypack, 80L duffel for mule (waterproof, lockable), -20C sleeping bag, trekking poles, headlamp + spare batteries, polarised sunglasses cat 4 with side-shields, 2L water capacity, water purification, power bank (15,000+ mAh), universal adapter, hand sanitiser, baby wipes (no showers for 20+ days)

Documents: Passport, Nepal visa, insurance, 6 passport photos (multiple permits), copies of all permits

Medical: Diamox 250mg, broad-spectrum antibiotics (consult doctor), painkillers, antihistamines, ORS, blister care, SPF 50+ sunscreen, lip balm, personal medications. Bring your own supply - there are no pharmacies after Juphal.

Frequently asked questions

How hard is this trek really?

Among the hardest in our catalogue. 25 consecutive days of walking, four 5,000m+ passes, no teahouses for most of the route, basic camping conditions. Prior multi-day Himalayan trekking experience essential.

Why is it so expensive?

Restricted-area permits alone cost USD 800. The camping crew (cook, kitchen helpers, mule drivers, sirdar) is large and travels with you for 25 days. Domestic flights, jeep transfers and the full equipment load all add up. We do not compromise on team quality.

Can I do it cheaper?

The shorter Lower Dolpo Circuit (18 days, USD 2,900) covers Phoksundo and Dho Tarap without the Upper Dolpo restricted area. The 11-day Phoksundo Tea House Trek is the budget option.

What is the wildlife?

Blue sheep are common. Snow leopards live throughout Upper Dolpo (this is Peter Matthiessen country) but sightings are extremely rare. Himalayan tahr, golden eagle, lammergeier and various pika species are regular.

How are the camping conditions?

Comfortable but basic. Two-person tents, foam sleeping pads, dining tent with table and chairs, dedicated toilet tent. Daily boiled drinking water. The cook prepares Western-Nepali-Tibetan fusion meals.

How cold does it get?

-10 to -20C at night at the pass camps. -20C sleeping bag essential.

Can I shower?

No. 20+ days without a shower. Baby wipes are your friend. First shower in Marpha on Day 23.

What about emergencies?

We carry a satellite phone. Helicopter evacuation from anywhere on the route is possible but expensive (USD 5,000-10,000) and weather-dependent. Your insurance must cover this.

Why include Tibetan-speaking guide?

Most villagers above Saldang speak only Tibetan dialects. Without a Tibetan-speaking guide you lose 90% of the cultural experience.

Can I do this trek solo?

No - restricted-area permits require minimum two trekkers. Join one of our group departures.

When are flights to Juphal most reliable?

October and late April-May. June and September can have cancellations. Always budget a buffer day at each end.

Still have questions? Talk to a guide →

Why book this with us

Senior local guides. Small groups. Honest pricing.

  • Departures led by a guide who grew up in the region.
  • Max 8 trekkers per group — no convoys.
  • 100% Nepali-owned. Profit stays in the valleys.
  • Free cancellation up to 30 days before departure.
  • Permits, internal flights and TIMS handled by us.
  • 24/7 in-country support during your trek.

From $3850

per person

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