Saribung Peak Expedition - 24 Days

Mustang · 24 Days

Saribung Peak Expedition - 24 Days

· Strenuous · Max altitude 6,346m (20,827 ft) at Saribung Peak summit · Max group 2-16 people

Duration

24 Days

Max Altitude

6,346m (20,827 ft)

at Saribung Peak summit

Grade

Strenuous

Lodging

Hotel / Teahouse / Tented camp

Overview

The Saribung Peak Expedition is the most committing of Nepal's combined trek-and-climb itineraries - a 24-day traverse that walks the full length of Upper Mustang, summits a 6,346m Himalayan peak, crosses the 6,042m Saribung La and descends through the Nar-Phu Valley to finish on the Annapurna Circuit at Koto. The route was opened to foreign mountaineers in 2006 and remains one of Nepal's least-trafficked expedition peaks; many seasons see fewer than 30 successful summits.

This is a fully committing expedition. The trek includes an Upper Mustang restricted-area permit, a Saribung NMA climbing permit and a Nar-Phu special permit. You will spend the first eight days walking through the dry Tibetan-plateau landscape of Lo Manthang, the next week climbing to base camp at 4,950m, then summit Saribung from Camp I at 5,730m before crossing the Saribung La into Nar-Phu. Climbing skills required: crampons, fixed-rope ascent, basic glacier travel, prior altitude experience above 5,500m.

Highlights

  • Summit Saribung Peak (6,346m) - one of Nepal's quietest 6,000m mountains
  • Cross the Saribung La (6,042m) from Mustang into Nar-Phu Valley
  • Walk the full length of restricted Upper Mustang - Jomsom to Lo Manthang to Damodar Kunda
  • Visit Damodar Kunda - the sacred Hindu lake at 4,890m
  • Stand inside Lo-Gyakar Gompa - the 8th-century Mahayana monastery
  • Explore the walled medieval capital of Lo Manthang
  • Finish on the Annapurna Circuit by descending Nar-Phu Valley
  • Camp in true Tibetan-plateau wilderness for two weeks
  • All climbing gear, group equipment and Sherpa support included
  • See the cliff sky-caves of Chusang and the Luri Gompa cave-monastery

Itinerary

Day 1

Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m)

🍽 None included

Airport pickup and transfer to your hotel.

Day 2

Kathmandu briefing and gear check

🍽 Breakfast

Final equipment review with climbing Sherpa. Permit paperwork.

Day 3

Drive Kathmandu to Pokhara (850m)

⏱ 6-7 hours 🍽 Breakfast

Tourist bus or private vehicle along the Prithvi Highway.

Day 4

Fly Pokhara to Jomsom (2,720m), trek to Lupra

⏱ 4 hours 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Early morning flight then short walk into the dry valley.

Day 5

7: Trek to Lo Manthang (3,810m) via Chungshi Cave Monastery, Ghami, Dhakmar

🍽 All three daily

Three days walking through the Upper Mustang painted-cliff landscape.

Day 8

Explore Lo Manthang and Chosar caves

🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Rest day inside the walled capital. Visit Choede Gompa and the sky-cave galleries.

Day 9

11: Trek Lo Manthang to Yara, Luri Gompa, Ghuma Thanti

🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Three days east through high-desert terrain to the Damodar approach.

Day 12

Trek to Damodar Kunda (4,890m)

🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Reach the sacred lake. Camp.

Day 13

Trek to Saribung Base Camp (4,950m)

🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Short day to set up base camp.

Day 14

Acclimatisation and gear check at Base Camp

🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Rope drills, crampon practice, snow-school refresher.

Day 15

Climb to Camp I (5,730m)

⏱ 5-6 hours ↔ 4 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Move up to the snow camp on the south ridge.

Day 16

Summit Saribung Peak (6,346m) and descend to Base Camp

⏱ 10-12 hours ▲ 6,346m 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

The summit day. Pre-dawn start, fixed-rope on the upper face, summit, descent all the way to Base Camp.

Day 17

Weather/summit contingency day

🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Reserve day for a second summit attempt if Day 16 was lost to weather.

Day 18

Cross Saribung La (6,042m) to Nagoru

⏱ 8-9 hours 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Major day - glacier pass crossing into Nar-Phu Valley.

Day 19

20: Trek Nagoru to Phu Gaon to Meta

🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Descend the Nar-Phu Valley through Tibetan Buddhist hamlets.

Day 21

Trek Meta to Koto, jeep to Chame

🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Reach the Annapurna Circuit road network.

Day 22

Drive Chame to Besisahar

⏱ 6 hours 🍽 Breakfast

Jeep transfer down the Marsyangdi valley.

Day 23

Drive Besisahar to Kathmandu

⏱ 6-7 hours 🍽 Breakfast

Return to Kathmandu. Celebration dinner.

Day 24

Departure

🍽 Breakfast

Airport transfer for your onward flight.

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What's included

Included

  • Airport pickups and drops in Kathmandu
  • 2 nights twin-share 3-star Kathmandu hotel
  • 1 night Pokhara hotel
  • Domestic flight Pokhara-Jomsom (one way)
  • Private jeep transfers as per itinerary
  • Full tented camp with sleeping tents, mess, kitchen, toilet
  • All three meals per day during the trek and climb
  • Trek leader, climbing Sherpa, assistant guide, cook, kitchen team and porters
  • ACAP, TIMS, Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit (US$500), Nar-Phu special permit
  • Saribung Peak NMA climbing permit
  • Group climbing equipment (fixed rope, ice screws, snow bars, group rope)
  • Personal climbing gear hire (crampons, harness, ice-axe, jumar)
  • Medical kit, oxygen, pulse oximeter
  • All applicable taxes and government fees
  • HHT duffel bag and trek certificate

Not included

  • International airfare
  • Nepal visa fee
  • Travel and high-altitude (6,500m) rescue insurance - compulsory
  • Lunches and dinners in cities
  • Bottled drinks, alcohol
  • Personal climbing kit (boots, base layers, mittens)
  • Garbage deposit US$500 (refundable on return with no waste)
  • Tips for climbing Sherpa and crew

Trek guide

Why Saribung Matters

Saribung was opened to foreign climbing in 2006. Unlike Island Peak (200+ summits per season) or Mera Peak (300+), Saribung sees roughly 20-40 summits per year across all operators. The peak sits at the back of the Damodar Himal chain on the dry side of the main Himalaya - which means generally drier weather, more reliable summit windows and the unique experience of looking north into Tibet from the summit.

The Three-Region Logic

  • Days 1-9 (Mustang): Jomsom, Lo Manthang, restricted Tibetan-plateau culture
  • Days 10-15 (Damodar Himal): Damodar Kunda lake, Saribung Base Camp, summit attempt
  • Days 16-21 (Nar-Phu): Cross the Saribung La into Phu Gaon, walk down the valley
  • Days 22-24 (Annapurna Circuit): Exit via Koto and jeep to Besisahar

Climbing Sequence

  • Base Camp: 4,950m (Damodar Kunda area), 2 nights
  • Camp I: 5,730m (snow camp on the south ridge), 1 night
  • Summit day: Pre-dawn start, fixed-rope on the upper face, summit by 9-10am
  • Descent: All the way back to Base Camp
  • Saribung La crossing: Days after summit, 6,042m glacier pass

Permits Stack

This is one of the most permit-heavy treks in Nepal:
- ACAP entry
- TIMS card
- Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit - US$500 for 10 days
- Nar-Phu Special Permit - US$100 for 7 days
- Saribung NMA Climbing Permit (around US$250 in autumn)
- Garbage deposit US$500 refundable

Technical Grade

PD+ (Peu Difficile plus). One 60m fixed-rope section on the upper snow face. Requires:
- Confident use of crampons on hard snow and glacier ice
- Ability to ascend a fixed rope with a jumar
- Basic crevasse-rescue awareness (Sherpa-led)
- Prior altitude experience above 5,500m strongly recommended

Best Season

  • Spring (April-May): Slightly warmer, longer days
  • Autumn (September-October): Driest, most reliable
  • Avoid winter and monsoon outright

Fitness

Strenuous. Capable of 7 hours of trekking on consecutive days, prior experience at 5,000m+, comfortable with rope work. Pre-trip training: cardio 4-5 sessions per week for 3 months minimum, ideally with weighted-pack hill walking.

Packing list

Clothing: -30C summit down jacket, mid-weight down, fleece, soft-shell, hard-shell, 3 trekking shirts, 3 trousers, thermals (3 sets - mix weights), 8 pairs socks, beanie, sun hat, balaclava, neck buff

Climbing-specific: B3 mountaineering boots (broken in), expedition mittens + liner gloves, fleece climbing gloves, gaiters, summit suit recommended

Accessories: 45L summit pack, 60L duffel x2 for porter, -30C summit sleeping bag, -10C lower-camp bag (optional), trekking poles, headlamp with spare batteries, glacier sunglasses cat 4, ski goggles, 2L water bottles, insulated cover, hand and foot warmers

Documents: Passport with Nepal visa, insurance with helicopter and 6,500m rescue cover, 4 passport photos

Medical: Diamox, Dexamethasone (under medical advice), painkillers, blister care, SPF 50+ glacier-grade, lip balm

Frequently asked questions

How technical is the climb?
PD+ Alpine grade. One 60m fixed-rope section, snow and glacier travel throughout. Not a beginner peak.

Do I need prior 6,000m experience?
Strongly recommended. Prior successful Island Peak or Mera Peak (or similar) is the most common qualification.

What is the summit success rate?
Roughly 60-70% for fit, experienced climbers in good weather. Weather is the single biggest factor.

Can I do this without the Nar-Phu exit?
Technically yes - you can retrace to Mustang - but the Saribung La crossing is the natural exit and forms the second half of the expedition character.

How heavy is the daypack?
7-8 kg on trek days, 10-12 kg on summit day. Porters carry the duffel and group equipment to base camp; you and the Sherpa carry only personal kit above.

Oxygen?
We carry emergency oxygen at base camp but do not use bottled oxygen on the climb. Saribung is climbed without supplementary O2.

How cold is the summit?
-25 to -35C at dawn including wind chill. Full down suit recommended.

How are the toilets?
Dedicated toilet tent at base camp. Above base camp you dig a hole and bury the waste in a sealed bag - we bring it back down.

What if I do not summit?
Most climbers descend with the team to Saribung La and complete the traverse. Summit failure does not end the expedition.

Why is this trek so expensive compared to Island Peak?
Permits alone exceed US$1,000 (Mustang restricted, Nar-Phu, Saribung NMA, garbage). The 24-day kitchen-and-camp operation across remote terrain is the other major cost driver.

Still have questions? Talk to a guide →

Why book this with us

Senior local guides. Small groups. Honest pricing.

  • Departures led by a guide who grew up in the region.
  • Max 8 trekkers per group — no convoys.
  • 100% Nepali-owned. Profit stays in the valleys.
  • Free cancellation up to 30 days before departure.
  • Permits, internal flights and TIMS handled by us.
  • 24/7 in-country support during your trek.

From $4650

per person

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