Mera Peak Climbing - 14 Days

Everest · 14 Days

Mera Peak Climbing - 14 Days

· Challenging · Max altitude 6,476m (21,247 ft) at Mera North summit · Max group 2-6 people

Duration

14 Days

Max Altitude

6,476m (21,247 ft)

at Mera North summit

Grade

Challenging

Lodging

Teahouse / Lodge + tented high camp

Overview

Mera Peak at 6,476m is the highest officially classified trekking peak in Nepal. Despite the altitude, the climbing is non-technical - a long, steady snow plod up the gentle north face of the Mera glacier, then a final fixed-rope section on the summit cone. There is no head wall, no knife-edge ridge, no exposure to drop-offs. What there is, in abundance, is altitude.

From the summit you see five 8,000m peaks - Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kanchenjunga - in a single unbroken sweep. It is the largest 8,000m panorama you can earn without a fully technical expedition. Our 14-day itinerary uses the jeep approach via Bung Mahakulung (Hinku valley) rather than the longer Zatrwa La pass route - this is gentler on the acclimatisation and saves four days.

Highlights

  • Summit Nepal's highest trekking peak (6,476m)
  • Five 8,000m peaks visible from the summit: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Kanchenjunga
  • Non-technical glacier climb - no head wall, no exposed ridges
  • Approach through the wild Hinku valley - quiet, traditional, untouristed
  • Sacred Panch Pokhari (Five Lakes) high-altitude pilgrimage site
  • Pre-summit training day at Khare base camp covering crampons, ice axe and rope work
  • Tented high camp at 5,800m for a shorter, more humane summit day
  • NMA-certified climbing sirdar with 1 sirdar per 3 climbers
  • Visit ancient Khiraule Gompa (founded 1738)
  • All climbing gear (except boots) included

Itinerary

Day 1

Kathmandu to Bung Mahakulung (1,700m)

⏱ 12 hours ↔ 280 km by jeep 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Long pre-dawn jeep transfer through hill country and Sherpa villages to Bung.

Day 2

Bung to Khiraule Gompa (2,600m)

⏱ 4-5 hours ↔ 9 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Walk through Rai and Sherpa villages to the ancient Khiraule Monastery (founded 1738).

Day 3

Khiraule Gompa to Cholem Kharka (3,600m)

⏱ 4-5 hours ↔ 10 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Climb through rhododendron and bamboo forest, then a steep section to the high yak pasture.

Day 4

Cholem Kharka to Panch Pokhari (4,200m)

⏱ 5-6 hours ↔ 7 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Stone steps up to the sacred Five Lakes pilgrimage site. Crossing the treeline.

Day 5

Panch Pokhari to Kothe (3,550m)

⏱ 4-5 hours ↔ 9 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Descend through alpine forest into the Hinku river valley to Kothe.

Day 6

Kothe to Thangnak (4,350m)

⏱ 4-5 hours ↔ 9 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Walk up the Hinku rocky riverbed with Mera Peak and Kusum Kanguru in view.

Day 7

Thangnak to Khare (5,000m)

⏱ 3-4 hours ↔ 6 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Short morning climb past the Hinku glacier to the climbers' lodge cluster at Khare.

Day 8

Acclimatisation and climbing training at Khare

⏱ 4-5 hours 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Crampon, axe, jumar and rope-team practice with the climbing sirdar. Afternoon rest.

Day 9

Khare to Mera High Camp (5,800m)

⏱ 5-6 hours ↔ 5 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Up the Mera glacier to the tented high camp on a rocky ledge. First views of Everest and Lhotse.

Day 10

Summit Mera North (6,476m), descend to Khare

⏱ 8-10 hours ▲ 6,476m 🍽 Pre-dawn snack, packed Lunch, Dinner

2am start, rope up on the glacier, steady 4-5 hour climb to the summit cone, fixed rope to the top. Five 8,000m peaks in one panorama. Descend the same way to Khare.

Day 11

Khare to Kothe (3,550m)

⏱ 6 hours ↔ 15 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Long descent down the Hinku valley.

Day 12

Kothe to Thuli Kharka (4,200m)

⏱ 6 hours ↔ 11 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Climb out of the Hinku valley through pine and rhododendron forest. Last views of Mera.

Day 13

Thuli Kharka to Lukla (2,840m) via Zatrwa La (4,610m)

⏱ 6-7 hours ↔ 12 km 🍽 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Cross the Zatrwa La pass, then a long descent through oak and juniper forest into Lukla.

Day 14

Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

⏱ 35-min flight 🍽 Breakfast

Morning flight back to Kathmandu.

Ready to walk this?

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What's included

Included

  • Airport transfers and one-way flight Lukla-Kathmandu
  • 12-hour private jeep transfer Kathmandu to Bung Mahakulung
  • Mera Peak climbing permit (NMA)
  • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit and Makalu Barun National Park permits (as needed)
  • Senior English-speaking trekking guide on the approach
  • NMA-certified climbing sirdar for the summit push (1 per 3 climbers)
  • Climbing gear: crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, jumar, descender, slings, carabiners
  • 1 porter for every 2 trekkers
  • Teahouse accommodation on the approach and descent
  • Tented high camp at 5,800m with sleeping tents, dining tent, toilet tent and kitchen crew
  • Three meals a day throughout (lodges + camp)
  • Emergency evacuation co-ordination
  • Pulse-oximeter monitoring above 4,000m
  • All government taxes and service charges

Not included

  • Nepal entry visa fee
  • International airfare
  • Travel insurance covering climbing up to 6,500m with helicopter rescue (compulsory)
  • Personal mountaineering boots (rentable in Kathmandu)
  • Personal trekking gear, down jacket, sleeping bag (rentable in Kathmandu)
  • Hot showers, Wi-Fi, charging
  • Bottled water, sodas, alcohol
  • Tips for the climbing sirdar, guide and porters
  • Any cost arising from flight delays or weather

Trek guide

Why Mera Peak

Mera was first climbed in 1953 by Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing - the same year Hillary and Tenzing summited Everest. It has three summits: Mera North (6,476m), Mera Central (6,461m) and Mera South (6,065m). The North summit is the standard climb and the one we attempt.

The Climb in Plain Terms

This is not a technical climb in the head-wall sense - there is no near-vertical pitch. It is a gentle but unrelenting snow walk up a glacier, gaining 700m of altitude over a 5-hour push from high camp. The final 50m to the summit involves a fixed rope on a moderate snow slope.

Summit day looks like:
- 2-3am wake-up at high camp (5,800m).
- Rope up at the camp edge, walk up the Mera glacier on flat-to-gentle snow.
- Steady ascent for 4-5 hours to the summit shoulder.
- Last 50m up a 35-40 degree snow slope using a jumar on a fixed rope.
- Summit, photos, descend.
- Back to Khare base camp by mid-afternoon.

Acclimatisation

The Hinku valley approach naturally builds acclimatisation - you walk from 1,700m at Bung to 5,000m at Khare over six days. A dedicated rest day at Khare is used for climbing training. Optional acclimatisation hike to 5,400m the day before the high-camp push.

Permits

  • Mera Peak Climbing Permit (NMA) - USD 250-500 depending on season
  • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit
  • Makalu Barun National Park Permit (the trek passes through buffer zone)

All issued in Kathmandu by our office.

Best Season

  • Spring (April-May): Stable weather, warmer summit conditions, busier
  • Autumn (October-November): Coldest, driest, the photographer's season

Fitness

Strenuous. You should be able to walk 6-8 hours daily at altitude with a 7 kg daypack, and walk in crampons for 7-8 continuous hours on summit day. Prior trekking experience to 5,000m+ strongly recommended. 4-6 months of focussed cardio + leg strength + at least one multi-day Himalayan trek beforehand.

Packing list

Climbing gear (we provide): Crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, jumar, descender, carabiners, slings

Personal climbing gear: Plastic or rigid mountaineering boots (B2/B3), gaiters, -30C rated down expedition jacket, -25C 4-season sleeping bag

Clothing: Heavy down jacket, fleece mid-layer, hard-shell jacket and trousers, soft-shell trousers, 3 base layer tops, 2 trekking trousers, thermal long johns, 6 pairs socks (incl. thick mountaineering socks), warm beanie, balaclava, neck buff, insulated mittens, liner gloves

Footwear: Mountaineering boots, broken-in trekking boots, camp shoes

Accessories: 40L summit pack, 65L duffel for porter, headlamp with extra batteries, glacier glasses cat 4 with side shields, goggles, 2L insulated water capacity, water purification, power bank (15,000+ mAh)

Documents: Passport with Nepal visa, climbing insurance certificate, 4 passport photos

Medical: Diamox 250mg, painkillers, antihistamines, blister care, SPF 50+ sunscreen and lip balm, rehydration salts, personal medications

Frequently asked questions

Is Mera harder than Island Peak?
It is higher (6,476m vs 6,189m) but technically easier - no head wall, no knife-edge ridge. The challenge is purely altitude and stamina.

Do I need climbing experience?
No technical climbing experience required, but you must be a strong trekker with prior 5,000m+ Himalayan experience. The summit day is long.

What is the success rate?
Roughly 80-90% on our high-camp itinerary. Higher than Island Peak because the climbing is less technical.

Why the jeep approach instead of the Zatrwa La trek?
The jeep saves 4 days, gives a gentler acclimatisation profile and lets you skip the dangerous early Zatrwa La crossing while still un-acclimatised. We cross Zatrwa La on the descent when you are strong.

How cold is summit night?
-20 to -30C with windchill. Heavy expedition down jacket and insulated mittens essential.

Mera or Island Peak for a first 6,000m?
Mera if you want the highest, easiest summit and the five-8,000m panorama. Island Peak if you want a more technical, mixed glacier and rock climb.

Can I combine both?
Yes - the 25-day Three Peaks combo links Mera + Island + Lobuche. Speak to the office.

Do I need my own mountaineering boots?
Yes - B2 or B3 boots. Rentable in Kathmandu for USD 8-10 per day.

What insurance do I need?
Mountaineering insurance covering 6,500m altitude and helicopter rescue. World Nomads Explorer Plus, Global Rescue or BMC equivalent.

Are there toilets at high camp?
Yes - a dedicated toilet tent. All human waste is packed out from camps above 5,500m.

Still have questions? Talk to a guide →

Why book this with us

Senior local guides. Small groups. Honest pricing.

  • Departures led by a guide who grew up in the region.
  • Max 8 trekkers per group — no convoys.
  • 100% Nepali-owned. Profit stays in the valleys.
  • Free cancellation up to 30 days before departure.
  • Permits, internal flights and TIMS handled by us.
  • 24/7 in-country support during your trek.

From $2250

per person

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