The Villages of Upper Mustang: A Field Guide to Lo Tsho Dyun

The Villages of Upper Mustang: A Field Guide to Lo Tsho Dyun

Upper Mustang is known locally as Lo Tsho Dyun — Tibetan for "the seven valleys" — and it contains 33 villages scattered across an arid trans-Himalayan plateau. Each settlement has its own personality, its own monastery, its own particular relationship to the wind, the water, and the long history of the Lo kingdom that ruled here from the 13th century until Nepal became a republic in 2008. This field guide gathers what our Mustang-based guides know about each one, working west to east through the kingdom.

The royal capital

Lo Manthang

The walled medieval capital and the cultural heart of Upper Mustang. Three principal monasteries sit inside the city walls and a single entrance fee of NPR 1,000 covers all of them:

• Jampa Lhakhang — features a 15-metre seated Maitreya Buddha statue, one of the largest in the Himalaya
• Thubchen Gompa — exceptional restored wall paintings, ongoing conservation work funded by international foundations
• Chode Monastery — home of the monks who perform the Tiji Festival dance each May

The former Lo King's palace also stands inside the walls and is open to visitors. Lo Manthang is the natural base for 2-3 nights on any Upper Mustang trek.

The second city

Charang (Tsarang)

The historical second capital of Lo, sitting at 3,575 m about 3-4 hours' walk from Lo Manthang. The 14th-century Tsarang Monastery and old palace dominate the eastern cliff, visible from every corner of the village. Tsarang remains the administrative centre of Dalome Rural Municipality and is the largest settlement in Upper Mustang outside of Lo Manthang itself.

The agricultural villages

Ghami / Ghemi

A warmer village known for productive agriculture, summer buckwheat and mustard fields, and what locals claim is the longest mani wall in Nepal — set against grey, ochre and red cliffs. Prayer walls, chortens and traditional monasteries make this one of the more photogenic stops on the standard trek.

Dhakmar

Famous for its dramatic red cliffs. Local legend says the cliffs were stained with the blood of a demon defeated by Guru Padmasambhava during his Himalayan travels. Ghar Gompa, regarded as the oldest Buddhist monastery in the region, sits nearby. Recent highway construction between Ghami and Charang has altered the traditional trekking route through Dhakmar.

Ghiling / Geling

An hour from Sangbochen at 3,340 m. Split into two halves by a central monastery, with the school on one side and the residential quarter on the other. Recent infrastructure has solved the historical water shortages.

Tangbe / Tangwe

At roughly 3,350 m, an hour before Chhusang. Thick green barley fields and rustling poplars give Tangbe a softer feel than most Mustang villages. The local Taipa community has business interests in Pokhara and India, sending remittances home that fund continued cultivation.

The eastern villages

Yara

A warmer eastern village 40 minutes beyond Dhi Gaon. Geographers suspect an underground lake beneath the settlement, which is why only single-storey structures sit here — heavy buildings would compromise the ground. A striking sandy cliff defines the local landscape.

Tangye (Tange)

Isolated from the other eastern villages but agriculturally favoured. Residents are primarily yak, sheep and goat herders, and grow wheat, barley, potato, buckwheat, mustard, walnuts, grapes, apples and peaches. The iconic Tangye Chortens — eight stupas representing different stages of the Buddhist path from harmony to enlightenment — are the village's signature image.

Dhi / Dhee Gaon

A small sandy village beside the river flowing toward Kali Gandaki. Green fields signal good cultivation conditions. Often a lunch stop for trekkers heading to Yara for the night.

Tetang

An easy flat-walking village near Chhusang. Notable for an old ruined fortress, colourful chortens and cliff caves. Sees fewer trekkers than its neighbours.

The Chosar Valley

East of Lo Manthang, the Chosar Valley contains a network of villages — Arka, Bacha, Garphu, Nyiu and Shija — and most of Upper Mustang's famous sky caves.

• Jhong Caves — multi-storey cave dwellings accessible by ladder, with painted ceilings
• Niphu Gompa — small cave monastery
• Garphu Gompa — another cave monastery, less visited
• Rinchenling — ancient mandalas painted inside caves
• Kunchokling — for our money the most striking single landscape in upper Mustang

A single NPR 1,000 entrance fee covers all sites in the valley.

The Lo King's summer residence

Thinggar / Thingkar

The Lo King's summer palace village, damaged in the 2015 earthquake and fully restored by 2019. Historically used for dispute resolution by the king. Two ruined Bonpo (pre-Buddhist) monasteries stand to the south-west. The village monastery hosts major ceremonies including Saga Dawa and summer retreats.

The transit villages

Chhusang / Chhuksang

The popular second-day camp from Jomsom, split by the Narsing River. Surrounded by rich fields of barley, wheat, buckwheat, peas, mustard plus apple and apricot orchards. A new aluminium bridge has replaced the traditional river crossing.

Chele / Tsele

At 3,050 m, an hour past Chhusang on the river's edge. Afternoon winds from the Kali Gandaki define the climate. Several lodges make this a viable overnight stop.

Samar

12-14 houses, two lodges, classic lunch stop on the way to Sangbochen.

Ghyakar

Once isolated on cliff trails, now connected by suspension bridge that lets you avoid the dusty highway.

Sangbochen / Sangmochen

Four to five houses converted into lodges, between Bhena and Chungshi Rangjung Cave Monastery. The name comes from Guru Padmasambhava's encounter here with a local girl named Sangmo during his demon-subduing journeys.

The high-altitude settlements

Bhena

A single tea shop at 3,860 m near Chungshi Cave monastery.

Yamda

Another minimal settlement 30-40 minutes past Bhena.

Tama Gaon

Four houses at 3,710 m along the old salt-trade route.

Chhunggar

Two houses isolated above Jhaite, near the Kora La highway.

Jhaite

Popular tea-break stop at the base of Nyi La pass.

The border and northern villages

Nyamdo

The closest village to the Nepal-China border at Kora La. Recently renovated chortens, and a rock that bears the legendary footprint of Buddhist scholar Dawa Gyaltsen.

Chungchung

West of Nyamdo. Specialises in yak herding — nearly every household owns yaks and migrates seasonally with their herds.

Samdzong / Samjong

Isolated at 4,000 m behind Kunchokling. Most residents have relocated to a new Swiss-funded settlement called Namashung, leaving 18 buildings in the original village.

The Lo Manthang neighbours

Marang

48 households with excellent soil for cultivation.

Namgyal

North-west of Lo Manthang, surrounded by ruined forts and famous for the cliff-edge Namgyal Gompa.

Phuwa

A small congested village a 20-minute walk from Thingkar, with a cliff monastery and narrow paths.

Chhorak

North of Lo Manthang's walls, known for traditional folk dances and Tibetan opera performances.

Nenyul

At 3,880 m near Chosar. The name means "Barley Village" in the local dialect.

Ghara

At 3,770 m, dominated by the spectacular cliff-perched Luri Gompa.

Dhe

Beyond Dhe La Pass, home to a unique dialect (Lowa Tibetan) and a population that has been migrating to the new settlement of Dhetsang, where Swiss-funded imported French apple farms have taken root.

Kimaling

A 30-minute walk from Thinggar, hosts the local ward office. Shree Chhonhup Jhinju Basic School consolidates regional education with a hostel for distant pupils, and relocates to lower altitude during harsh winters.

How to use this guide

A standard 14-day Upper Mustang trek will overnight in about eight of these villages and visit perhaps 12-15 of the rest as lunch stops or sightseeing detours. A longer 19-day Upper Mustang Classic Trek or 20-day 8 Knots route opens up the eastern and northern villages — Tangye, Yara, Dhe, Nyamdo and Chungchung — that most visitors never see.

We staff Upper Mustang trips with guides who speak Tibetan and know the village monasteries personally. This is the difference between walking through Mustang and being welcomed into it.

Plan your village-deep Mustang trip

If you want to spend time in the less-visited villages rather than rushing the standard route, talk to us about a custom extended itinerary. Browse our Upper Mustang collection or contact our Kathmandu team.