Five Weeks in the Tsum Valley: A Trekker's Story

I spent almost five weeks travelling through the Tsum Valley with Himalayan Hidden Trails, and it was an extraordinary experience. The length of the journey meant that I had the opportunity to explore the valley at a slower pace and to experience much more than I would have on a typical trek. What made the experience particularly special, however, were my amazing guides from the Himalayan Hidden Trails team. They were incredibly kind, patient and knowledgeable, and as locals from the Tsum Valley, they were able to give me a much deeper insight into the places we were visiting.

Rather than simply walking from one destination to the next, I felt that I was genuinely learning about the valley along the way. My guides shared stories about Tsum's history, culture, religious traditions and way of life, and were always happy to answer my endless stream questions. Their local knowledge also brought the landscape to life, from explaining the significance of monasteries and sacred sites to pointing out wildlife, plants and mountain landscapes that I otherwise have walked straight past. They were also incredibly attentive and flexible throughout the expedition, adjusting the itineraries to my needs and interest, making the entire expedition very enjoyable.

The Tsum Valley itself is somewhere truly extraordinary. The combination of dramatic Himalayan landscapes, ancient Buddhist culture and remote mountain villages makes it unlike anywhere else I have travelled. One of my favourite parts of the expedition was the journey to Gumba Lungdang, tucked away in a beautiful rhododendron forest beneath the towering Ganesh Himal. We were warmly welcomed by the ani (nuns) during our stay, and the peacefulness of the monastery and its surroundings was unforgettable. We also had the opportunity to trek towards Ganesh Himal Base Camp, with spectacular mountain scenery throughout the journey.

Another highlight was travelling through the Upper Tsum Valley, from Chhokangparo all the way to the furthest village of Nile. Along the way, we passed yak and dzo grazing in mountain pastures and walked through small villages surrounded by enormous Himalayan peaks. We visited Milarepa's cave, Rachen Gomba, and Mu Gumba above Nile. These places gave me a wonderful appreciation for the depth of the Buddhist history and spiritual traditions of Tsum. The wildlife was also unforgettable, and I was lucky enough to see blue sheep, marmots, Himalayan griffons and the beautiful Himalayan Monal during the expedition, alongside countless other birds and animals. There were also endless moments of simply stopping to take in the landscape, walking through rhododendron forests, watching clouds move across the mountains, or looking down into the valley from a high trail.

But most of all, I will remember the people of the Tsum Valley who made my experience so wonderful. Spending such a long period in the valley meant that I had the chance to get to know my guides well, and their warmth, humour and generosity made the experience feel much more personal than a typical trekking trip. Their knowledge of Tsum and genuine pride in their home made me appreciate the valley in a completely different way.

I would wholeheartedly recommend Himalayan Hidden Trails to anyone looking to explore the Tsum Valley or undertake an adventure anywhere in Nepal. If you are looking for experienced local guides who will not only get you safely along the trail but also help you understand and appreciate the places you are visiting, I could not recommend them more highly.